repairing DDdy neck and leg pieces and reparing peach pai?

 

ok so I got a used Dddy off of DoA and the original sale thread said she did have some damage that her leg peg had been broken and fixed with epoxy.

 

Since it was Yoko's body and came with a peachpai bust I thought, meh ok - so now I'm starting to wonder how to fix this becaaaaaause

 

When I get the body home the fixed epoxy leg was not connected - perhaps because epoxy is brittle or the cold during transport, or whatever... so first off - I sanded/removed all the epoxy I could to make it easier to reattach

 

After that I thought... Ok so Yoko has a peg leg, lets at least see how the peachpai actually looks on her - and i go to take off her upper bust and snap... the neck piece comes out separate - upon further inspection of the piece it was attached to... Good GOD Volks, it's a wonder you had any kind of use out of that neck piece at all - the connector is so so small for no reason.

 

Soooooo

 

Does anyone have any recommendations of types of glue to use? I'm assuming I'd need some kind of glue for specific plastics but I'm not totally sure what the internal frame is made out of since it's harder than the vinyl. Because of the small connections, it would have to be something that at least set pretty quick because I dont see how I'd be able to hold the pieces in place like normal resin and hope for a proper connection if it takes usually a few hours to set into a semi-solid then 24 hours to cure.

 

the peach pai has just the smallest bit of tear around the armhole (realy to me it looks like a skin tag o__O) and I'm wondering if just normal clear silicone will help keep it in place and seal it up?

 

Any help is appreciated

To fix the leg part, you need to get this stuff:

 

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/15061549728645752989?sclient=psy-ab&site=&q=permatex+plastic+weld&oq=permatex+pl&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.88528373,d.eXY&biw=1280&bih=580&dpr=1.5&tch=1&ech=1&psi=klALVbbCLYSmgwTnkoPwAw.1426804883226.3&sa=X&ei=p1ALVaaxF8O0ggSV3YHgAw&ved=0CIUBELok

 

I use that on all my frame/skeleton repairs and it's an awesome epoxy that holds super strong. I've repaired many a spine or torso piece with it!

 

As for the neck part, I wouldn't even worry about fixing it with the epoxy. I'd buy a Cool Cats replacement part and call it a day. It works better, gives greater range of motion and is made of aluminum. Here's the link:

 

http://us.sk-coolcat.com/front/bin/ptlist.phtml?Category=382741

 

But if you want to save the money and try to use the epoxy on that neck piece, you can certainly give it a shot. I've never tried to use it on that piece before but it may work out.

 

The Peach Pai is kind of a lost cause really. There's nothing you can use to hold it together that won't be easily seen or be distracting looking on it. If you plan on keeping them, just be very careful when moving them and clothing them and you should be okay. The silicone they're made of is kind of tricky and I think trying to use any kind of other silicone or chemical on them will cause either discoloration or damage so I'd recommend not trying to repair them. Just my two cents.

 

 

Billy

Agreed, I've used the epoxy Billy recommended and it works great. It'll set up in minutes and completely cure in hours. After you combine the parts you only have about 15 or so minutes depending on humidity levels before it gets too solid to apply, so set out everything in advance. Also, it's very smelly so wear a mask and work in a well ventilated area.

 

I would also personally get a new neck part from Coolcat, just because you put a lot of strain on that part when you pull a head off.

 

And lastly, I don't have personal experience with peach pai but it seems you'd have to use a different type of epoxy for it. One page about silicone molds suggested adding fabric to the back side to create extra stability, but without seeing the tear I don't know if that'd be helpful.

 

http://blog.polytek.com/tag/fixing-tears-in-silicone-molds/

Awesome thanks guys for such a speedy response!!

 

I did try some glue called loctite on the neckpiece. In time I will definitely upgrade to the coolcat one if/when this snaps again. I had thought of that piece for mdds but forgot all about normal dd bodies too.. whoops XD

 

Oh and if you're curious on the leg - the glue just didn't work. I think b/c there was epoxy there in all the crevices of the leg that I couldn't sand out with my dremel the loctite didn't want to work as well... BUT in a pinch (b/c who here HATES getting a body then not being able to at least use/display it the same day... this gal! XD) I used 20 gauge jewelry wire and wrapped that middle indent on the thin leg piece then wrapped it down around the base of that cylinder piece. It looks terrible and the peg is not really connected at all to the other bit, but it keeps it in place enough that I can stand her sorta well (it's one of those things of... pose... back away without breathing... no sudden movements lol) and her foot flops around when I pick her up.. but hey it works for right now... XD

 

I'll take a photo of the peach pai tomorrow to describe what I mean - its kinda just basic wear thats around the arm joint.

 

But I will totally try the epoxy AND drilling the pegs to give her a splint type setup. I'm really kind of disappointed with volks in that regard - the shin has so much room in that vinyl cavity that they could have utilized to make things stronger. but it is what it is i suppose

abs plastic can be heat bond too. but need extra abs plastic to melt as filler.

I actually had the same break in the leg and the method I used to fix it seems to have held up pretty well, it's just as study as it was before and it's been good for months now. What you need is that metal tape they use for ACs, it's kind of like a thick tin foil with a sticky side. Build up quite a few layers of that tape around the broken part. The tape is really weak and will just tear when it's only a layer or two thick, but once you build up several layers it's much stronger. It's a similar idea to the wire, but it's easier to use since it has a sticky side.

This is a trick I have used to repair figure models. I don't know if it is appropriate in this case from the photo's, but the concept is simple and it works very well. The trick is in making sure both parts are lined up correctly. I used to have a link to a better guide, but can't find it.

 

http://www.tabletop-terrain.com/archives/2006/12/15/712/