[WTA] Faceup Guide?

I plan to do my own, to face up my DD.(Soon)

 

First I would like to ask, what are the tools required?

 

From Youtube, I can only found videos of SD faceup.

 

Basicly, I know we need special marker(make up) to draw the face.

Then we need to seal them with sealant.

 

Even so, I am actually don't have any idea of what are they.

 

So, anyone who have been with DD for long time, can shed me some light?

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited November 18, 2010 by Guest

There are two (as far as I know) tutorials on Sumika Times that may help get you started.

 

http://site.volksusa.com/sumikatimes/2010/01/07/dd-head-04-1st/

 

http://site.volksusa.com/sumikatimes/2009/06/03/create-your-own-dollfie-dream-girl/

So now that I actually have my first DD sitting here I'm looking at the paints and such on the Volks site and wondering:

 

Can't I just buy acrylic paint and pastels locally? Is there something special about the paints that Volks sells?

 

Are there acrylics or pastels I should avoid?

 

I do plan to get that UV spray to use as a base and sealant. I hope that by using it as a base I can redo the face if I need to.

 

Seems they are all out of that make pen. Wonder what I can use instead?

 

I tried to do some google searching, but the best I found were the links I posted above. And of course, Volks will suggest their own supplies.

 

Anyone have some ideas or experiences to share?

So now that I actually have my first DD sitting here I'm looking at the paints and such on the Volks site and wondering:

 

Can't I just buy acrylic paint and pastels locally? Is there something special about the paints that Volks sells?

 

Are there acrylics or pastels I should avoid?

 

I do plan to get that UV spray to use as a base and sealant. I hope that by using it as a base I can redo the face if I need to.

 

Seems they are all out of that make pen. Wonder what I can use instead?

 

I tried to do some google searching, but the best I found were the links I posted above. And of course, Volks will suggest their own supplies.

 

Anyone have some ideas or experiences to share?

 

I'm having the same dilemma...

But my method, before actually "paint" her face.

I'll photoshop the head first to get the idea of how her face going to be.

Ah~ since I haven't got mine.

Can you please take a macro shot of that DDH-4 and share to me?

I didn't take it out of the plastic yet. >.>

 

Maybe this will work. It's what I'm gonna use.

 

http://store.volksusa.com/ofoth20091205.html (the second picture)

I didn't take it out of the plastic yet. >.>

 

Maybe this will work. It's what I'm gonna use.

 

http://store.volksusa.com/ofoth20091205.html (the second picture)

 

Ah! Volks USA have much more better picture than Volks international...

 

Thank you...

It seems like any high quality acrylics should work. Here is a quote from vhdangel from the Flickr DD group:

 

"Well, the easy route is to think up what you want, gather similar pictures, and try to get on the waiting list for Hikaru132's face-up service (he does amazing work).

 

If you want to try it yourself, you need a few things:

 

1) Mr. SuperClear or Zoukeimura (ZM) finishing spray. Some people use Testor's Dullcote, but there are a lot of mixed reviews on this.

 

2. Acrylic paints - Volks sells good ones, but as long as you use good quality paints (something with a high pigment), you should be ok.

 

3. Pastels to make powder for blush.

 

4. Good (tiny for detail, large for blush) paint brushes and a steady hand, lol.

 

Be sure to start by spraying a coat of sealant (MSC or ZM) before starting. It keeps the paint from staining the doll's face, especially if you need to start over.

 

Some artist's recommend using multiple coats of sealant, alternating with painting things like eyelashes, blush, lips, etc. Others just say go for it. But let each layer dry before moving on.

 

Many suggest getting a filtered mask (the big ones, not the paper kind) to wear when using the sealants, as they're known to be toxic. At the very least, use it in a well ventilated area with low humidity."

 

Hikaru132 really does do fantastic work. He is a member here. Maybe he knows if there is anything special about Volks' acrylics.

Great! Thanks for the post. It should save me a little bit to just buy the colors I need locally than a set from Volks.

1.) Testor's Dullcote is a DIRT MAGNET. It is also not perfectly color neutral...it has a yellow cast. Horrible stuff, stay away.

 

2.) I really like ZM spray...I haven't tried Mr. Super Clear, but I like the paper-like texture the ZM gives to vinyl. It is a very conducive texture for doing the faceup...it tends to "take" the chalk pastel very well.

 

3.) Junky Spot is actually selling another type of matte spray: Vallejo Aerosol Acrylic Varnish. I'm not sure how well it works, but I suspect if Emory is selling it, it's at least a reasonable alternative.

How about safe materials for removing previous face-ups? I usually use acrylic paint remover, so would that work?

Hikaru132 said he uses Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner to remove faceups and that it is safe on DD heads.

Guys...

 

Will this work to replace the Zoukemura?

 

http://wiguan88.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/super-clear-uv-cut-flat-gsi-creos.jpg

When I remove a face-up on a Dollfie Dream, I use a 92% alcohol solution... which can be found for about $3 for a large bottle. I wash the Dollfie head after dunking it a few time sin the solution, and scrub off the excess sealent with a regular Mr. Clean magic Eraser. It makes the Dollfie head as good as new.

 

As for Mr. Super Clear UV cut, it was discontinued because it caused Resin doll heads and some vinyl doll heads to "yellow" faster than normal... kind of defeating the purpose of the product. I personally use the Volks ZM spray. It absorbs quickly into the vinyl, and doe snot leave a powdery finish like some sprays can do.

 

I however, HAVE noticed that some Volks pastel pigments fade quickly over time, which is a bit sad. When I used the Volks Basic set of pastels on Manami, everything but the mixture of pastels I used for her eyeshadow seem to have faded. When I painted Tsubaki, I tried the Gothic lolita pastel set colors for the cheek and lips, and those faded quickly, too. When I made my Miyuki, I used the Point Pastel set, which are practically like neon colored pastels, and she has yet to fade even a little bit. Right now, it's week two and a half... and nothing has faded, yet.

 

For Paints, I do recomend Liquitex Acrylic paints. They are very bright, and have more color options to select from than Volks. This is good if you have a Dollfie with an odd colored wig and you want her eyebrows to match. Just remember to use paint thinner or water to thin out liquitex paints, otherwise it will clump on and not look very flattering.

 

If you are looking for something neutral in the way of color, I'd go with the Volks Base Paint Set. They do not fade, work well with paint thinner so the paint does not clump on. Painting a Dollfie with light brown eyebrows and eyelashes is a good way to make her more versatile for a wig. Light brown tends to go with almost any wig color. It's not as heavy as black paint, because some Dollfies with black eyelashes and eyebrows cannot wear lighter color wigs without looking a bit off.

 

For shiny lips, I do recommend the ZM gloss. Just be very careful when using the gloss. If you clump it on or smudge it, it will not look good at all. Before you apply the gloss to the lips of your Dollfie, wipe the gloss off the brush on the inside of the gloss jar to think it out, then carefully paint the gloss on the lips and ONLY the lips.

 

If you want another boost to your shine, use Volks shine pearl. I highly recommend pink shine pearl. Again, you do NOT want to glomp on the shine pearl. Just dip the brush in the gloss, wipe any access gloss off on the inside of the jar, then dip your brush in the shine pearl powder, and gently apply to the lips. If it looks too clumped together on the brush, do a few strokes on a piece of paper and then apply to your Dollfie's lips. You do NOT have to apply sealent once you apply gloss or shine pearl. It's optional in my personally opinion.

 

^^; And that are my tips for a face-up.

Mmmm.

 

Everyone's really seemed to cover the basics really well so here's just a few things to think about before/during your face-up. Oh, and btw as far as my tone is concerned: I'm not talking down to folks doing their first face-ups. I have no doubt that I do not know everything about anything in my life. I'm writing this as a letter to myself before I began doing face-ups because these are (frankly) the important things I've learned that aren't listed for you to read on the Volks website:

 

Dear NakitaN,

 

- The Wax Paper Pallet

You should really have something on hand to mix your acrylics (if you are the painting type) to get the color results you like. While the Volks colors out the bottle are just dandy, mixing provides a unique and lovely result all its own and tends to be less harsh. I do a quite a few different heads so it's very helpful to have a disposable wax paper pallet. I also use the colors as references for future dolls for what I liked and didn't like. I believe a regular square of wax paper should do the trick- you don't need to buy an entire pallet if you're not going to use it all, ya know?

 

- On Acrylics & Thinner:

Where to begin? One of the toughest things to do during a face-up is to be able to mix your colors and get the correct consistency for the paint. Please watch how quickly they dry on the pallet. You'll be using your thinner just as much as your paint. It's a really delicate balance which calls for the utmost attention. If it's too thin, then acrylic paint becomes transparent and too thick leaves an unpleasant, rough surface. In the past, I have had trouble with this myself and it has caused me to start over. Additionally, your climate my influence paint consistency. I live in TX so it tends to be dry more then humid. I have to battle against time! ^^;;;;

 

- Measure Twice, Paint Once.

Can't stress this enough. I use a fabric tape measure to dot key points on my face-up so it will be as symmetrical and even as possible. Believe it or not, the 'special pen' volks sells is helpful but not completely necessary to the face-up process. On the other hand, accurate guide lines/points are invaluble- no matter what they are drawn with. Free handing details is just ducky but unintentionally wonky eyebrows will make you(me) nuts! Of course there is something to be said for on OOAK face they wasn't airbrushed in a factory with a stencil but I always strive for an even expression and measuring is KEY.

 

- Don't Be Afraid To Start Over.

Don't be too hard on yourself. Maybe you messed up the eyebrows? Perhaps you made the mouth look stiff. Or maybe you used dark paint and now she unintentionally looks like an unattractive drag queen. Less tends to be more when it comes to Dollfie Dreams. Their faces are naturally gorgeous so it can be tough to decide where the line is between 'not enough' and 'too much'. It's often times personal preference. Do you hate what you've done? It's ok. Use brush cleaner & a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to start over. Better yet, take a breather and then come back to your project in a couple days and don't force yourself. You may be excited to finish your first girl but taking your time is critical. Which brings me to:

 

- Be Patient. In other words: LET IT DRY, DANG IT.

I am the WORST when it comes to this. Painting doll faces can be really tough when you are impatient. Between waiting for MSC to dry or paint it can be a really long process to get to the end. On my face-ups I tend to have multiple layers for paint and pastel use. If you don't wait for one to dry your MSC can get glunky which = face-up ruined or you can mess your paint layers up so that they become too thick or even worse... bleed into the MSC! It's just bad. Just wait and save yourself the heartache of an entire wipe and losing your hours of work. LET THE MSC DRY, NAKITA.

 

 

- Don't Be Afraid To Use Unorthodox Methods.

Yup. Once you know how the layering works and to take your time then I fully believe you should try different methods to achieve the results you are looking for. I'm not saying 'go get a permanent marker and start drawing', but you should try clear acrylic paints, glitters, color pencils, whatever is within your realm of comfort. Some of the absolute best face-ups I have seen come from creative places instead of following all the (occasionally) boring rules. That said, if you plan on selling your art then be sure to let people know what you use! ^^

 

Hope this helps someone else. Additionally, if you have discovered how to travel back in time then please send me an instructional e-mail. Thanks!

Hi guys, since I'm the thread starter I feel a little bit responsibility to update this thread.

 

I manage to finish my face up using DDH-04.

 

Here's the picture of Yuu, my girl.

 

http://www.figure.fm/cgm/ecommerce/figure/images/large/430b5da9c4b9922a887c506ca35e8d3b.jpg

 

http://www.figure.fm/cgm/ecommerce/figure/images/large/430b5da9c4b9922a887c506ca35e8d3b.jpg

 

Feel free to see more of it at my post at Figure.Fm below.

 

http://www.figure.fm/post/en/24742/Dollfie+Photo+Model+Yuu+In+Golden+Flower+White+Tenshi+Dress.html

 

and here is the Face Up I did, trial and error (Prototyping) before I get to the final results.

 

http://www.figure.fm/post/en/24671/Face+Up+Prototyping+My+Dollfie+Dream+Project+Progress.html

 

So in summary here's what I did.

 

1. Wash the head with clean water.

2. Spray with Mr. Super Clear from Mr. Hobby

3. Glue the eyelash pattern onto the face.

4. Masking tape around the eyelash pattern.

5. Take off the eyelash pattern and clean any glue resides left without damaging the masking tape.

6. Use drawing pen 0.2 to trace around the details of the eyelashes.

7. Paint using acrylic paint.

8. For blush line, I use ordinary color pencil. the brand is Stabilo. LOL

9. For the blush I use real blush powder cosmetic.

10. For the lipgloss, I use real lipstick.

11. For the eyebrow, I use purple color pencil.

12. Seal a thin layer one more time with Mr. Super Clear.

13. We're done!

 

Some note, after I draw the blush line and the eyebrows, I found out that we can actually use only color pencil for face up.

But we must seal the surface with Mr. Super Clear to give it the matte finishing so that the color pencil can draw on the face.

 

Except for the DDH-04, I don't use any Volks face up equipment at all.

 

Have fun!

Dear NakitaN,

 

- The Wax Paper Pallet

You should really have something on hand to mix your acrylics (if you are the painting type) to get the color results you like. While the Volks colors out the bottle are just dandy, mixing provides a unique and lovely result all its own and tends to be less harsh. I do a quite a few different heads so it's very helpful to have a disposable wax paper pallet. I also use the colors as references for future dolls for what I liked and didn't like. I believe a regular square of wax paper should do the trick- you don't need to buy an entire pallet if you're not going to use it all, ya know?

 

I use Double A ordinary printing paper to mix the acrylic color while doing the trial and error.

I fold it 2 times.

Coz I really don't think I need to waste on wax paper but it's up to individual though.

 

- On Acrylics & Thinner:

Where to begin? One of the toughest things to do during a face-up is to be able to mix your colors and get the correct consistency for the paint. Please watch how quickly they dry on the pallet. You'll be using your thinner just as much as your paint. It's a really delicate balance which calls for the utmost attention. If it's too thin, then acrylic paint becomes transparent and too thick leaves an unpleasant, rough surface. In the past, I have had trouble with this myself and it has caused me to start over. Additionally, your climate my influence paint consistency. I live in TX so it tends to be dry more then humid. I have to battle against time! ^^;;;;

 

I agree with this, have so much trouble getting the nasty rough surface when the acrylic paint DRY ON MY BRUSH. LOL

Hmm, perhaps brush and acrylic color is just not meant for me.

I'm planning to use just color pencil after this.

 

- Don't Be Afraid To Start Over.

Don't be too hard on yourself. Maybe you messed up the eyebrows? Perhaps you made the mouth look stiff. Or maybe you used dark paint and now she unintentionally looks like an unattractive drag queen. Less tends to be more when it comes to Dollfie Dreams. Their faces are naturally gorgeous so it can be tough to decide where the line is between 'not enough' and 'too much'. It's often times personal preference. Do you hate what you've done? It's ok. Use brush cleaner & a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to start over. Better yet, take a breather and then come back to your project in a couple days and don't force yourself. You may be excited to finish your first girl but taking your time is critical. Which brings me to:

 

I want to add, for an alternative.

I don't really use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or whatever Volks product sell.

When I done it wrong, my weapon is TOILET PAPER TISSUE and also THINNER!

If you want to start all over again, just damp the tissue and wipe the face in one direction so you won't acbleepulate the melted acrylic on the face.

 

But if you use color pencil, an ordinary rubber eraser will do.

I use Double A ordinary printing paper to mix the acrylic color while doing the trial and error.

I fold it 2 times.

Coz I really don't think I need to waste on wax paper but it's up to individual though.

 

Well, you see, it helps to use wax paper because it prevents your paint from drying on your brush as you mention later on. Printer paper absorbs the moisture while wax (of course) repels- this means you'll have more moisture for your brush and it makes the paint easier to manage. Promise.

 

Usually folks have some sort of wax paper in their home and/or it's cheap so I don't think of it as a waste compared to other mats needed for a face-up.

 

I want to add, for an alternative.

I don't really use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or whatever Volks product sell.

When I done it wrong, my weapon is TOILET PAPER TISSUE and also THINNER!

If you want to start all over again, just damp the tissue and wipe the face in one direction so you won't acbleepulate the melted acrylic on the face.

 

But if you use color pencil, an ordinary rubber eraser will do.

 

 

Volks doesn't actually sell magic eraser or really anything specific to remove a mistake. My suggestions are just trial and error speaking. Acrylic thinner does work well but if you are working with multiple levels of MSC then it can melt through your levels of work resulting in a glompy 'melted-nail-polish-like-mess' and that will necessitate a wipe and start over. MSC is basically just clear acrylic spray paint and when you thin it, it will run just like your colors.... and then get horribly sticky.

 

If I don't have too much MSC on the head then I have totally used toilet paper to correct early mistakes. Unfortunately significant levels of MSC, when melted with thinner, is so much like glue that it will cause the TP to stick the doll head like super glue cause another giant reason to wipe and redo. Additionally, If I've got levels of MSC going and attempt to correct with thinner alone it can also cause an uneven surface in the face-up which will be noticeable when looking at the surface of the skin- i.e. one patch of the face I messed up on has 5 coats of MSC and the one unaltered received 10 coats.... it's not that it can't be blended back in again it's just tricky and tough to accomplish this with MSC.

 

I'm posting these comments not to correct you as we obviously do face-ups very differently and there is absolutely no wrong path to your dream girl. I just want to point out that some wonderful methods you shared above can have nasty complications with working with a set of other products people have described above and Volks talks about on their website. MSC can be really tricky to work with!

 

I'm so glad you posted pictures of your girl and your process. It's definitely work well done! *^^*

I use Double A ordinary printing paper to mix the acrylic color while doing the trial and error.

I fold it 2 times.

Coz I really don't think I need to waste on wax paper but it's up to individual though.

 

Well, you see, it helps to use wax paper because it prevents your paint from drying on your brush as you mention later on. Printer paper absorbs the moisture while wax (of course) repels- this means you'll have more moisture for your brush and it makes the paint easier to manage. Promise.

 

Usually folks have some sort of wax paper in their home and/or it's cheap so I don't think of it as a waste compared to other mats needed for a face-up.

 

 

Haha, I see...

I'm new to this painting stuffs...

Actually, just use these color, acrylic and stuffs just to give face for my girl. ^^

 

I want to add, for an alternative.

I don't really use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or whatever Volks product sell.

When I done it wrong, my weapon is TOILET PAPER TISSUE and also THINNER!

If you want to start all over again, just damp the tissue and wipe the face in one direction so you won't acbleepulate the melted acrylic on the face.

 

But if you use color pencil, an ordinary rubber eraser will do.

 

 

Volks doesn't actually sell magic eraser or really anything specific to remove a mistake. My suggestions are just trial and error speaking. Acrylic thinner does work well but if you are working with multiple levels of MSC then it can melt through your levels of work resulting in a glompy 'melted-nail-polish-like-mess' and that will necessitate a wipe and start over. MSC is basically just clear acrylic spray paint and when you thin it, it will run just like your colors.... and then get horribly sticky.

 

If I don't have too much MSC on the head then I have totally used toilet paper to correct early mistakes. Unfortunately significant levels of MSC, when melted with thinner, is so much like glue that it will cause the TP to stick the doll head like super glue cause another giant reason to wipe and redo. Additionally, If I've got levels of MSC going and attempt to correct with thinner alone it can also cause an uneven surface in the face-up which will be noticeable when looking at the surface of the skin- i.e. one patch of the face I messed up on has 5 coats of MSC and the one unaltered received 10 coats.... it's not that it can't be blended back in again it's just tricky and tough to accomplish this with MSC.

 

I'm posting these comments not to correct you as we obviously do face-ups very differently and there is absolutely no wrong path to your dream girl. I just want to point out that some wonderful methods you shared above can have nasty complications with working with a set of other products people have described above and Volks talks about on their website. MSC can be really tricky to work with!

 

I'm so glad you posted pictures of your girl and your process. It's definitely work well done! *^^*

 

I have been into the trouble you mentioned with multi layer MSC, I failed miserably when doing the face up free hand.

 

Learning from these and know my own skill limits I decide to print the pattern, masked it, and do everything on single layer.

 

Wrong! Then start from scratch again! T_T

I've been through more than 7 re-do before the final finishing...

But I'm glad I did finally come to the final results... ^o^

But I'm glad I did finally come to the final results... ^o^

 

You did a really good job and it's super helpful to everyone to see the steps you had to go through to get your final result. ^^

ok.. i sadly haven´t made a tutorial by my daughter but i do everything by free hand . no prints no glue up.

 

i usesd a simple soft pencil to draw the lines for the eye and if i made a mistake i take a rubber to remove and start again.

 

 

as colors i used liquid arcylic paint from games workshop. i had years ago good result on vinyl and resin model kits so i try it on my Daughter.

 

It works fine.

 

for lighter blushes i used pastel crayon. scrap some and take a q-tip to coat it to the face.

 

i have used msc nearly at last becasue the games worksoh acrylic are not so sensitiv if they are dry.

 

the crayons are more sensitiv so you should use it after this step.

 

than you can gloss the lips with glossy coat i take this one from games workshop too.

 

i need 2 and a half hour for my dolls face

 

 

 

im not so satifated with her lips there a bit unclean that i want change in the next weeks if i have a bit more time

ok.. i sadly haven´t made a tutorial by my daughter but i do everything by free hand . no prints no glue up.

 

i usesd a simple soft pencil to draw the lines for the eye and if i made a mistake i take a rubber to remove and start again.

 

 

as colors i used liquid arcylic paint from games workshop. i had years ago good result on vinyl and resin model kits so i try it on my Daughter.

 

It works fine.

 

for lighter blushes i used pastel crayon. scrap some and take a q-tip to coat it to the face.

 

i have used msc nearly at last becasue the games worksoh acrylic are not so sensitiv if they are dry.

 

the crayons are more sensitiv so you should use it after this step.

 

than you can gloss the lips with glossy coat i take this one from games workshop too.

 

i need 2 and a half hour for my dolls face

 

im not so satifated with her lips there a bit unclean that i want change in the next weeks if i have a bit more time

 

Wow! She's beautiful !!

But I've the same feeling like you, the lips need to be redo.

thanx i´m very satifited for the first Daughter and try .. so i take my time witj the next try on lips.

 

all i want say is its sometimes easier only to do it as to look thousands of tutorials.

 

if you made a face up a tutorial can only help on basis like wich color or sealant but not in how to decied the face up and eye forms.. thats all alon in your taste. and changes you and do whenever you like ..... so be brave and try

 

thats what i did too and its not bad

Question about faceups:

 

Is the ZM Make Pen worth buying for the outline of the lashes and what not?

 

-I like the idea of the make pen as it can give a rough outline of how the faceup will look. And the fact that it'll be a sort of guideline and a way of balancing the symmetry of the faceup. It can also be easily removed and reapplied.

 

What about making stencils out of tape?

Question about faceups:

 

Is the ZM Make Pen worth buying for the outline of the lashes and what not?

 

If you're 'freehanding' like I do then it can be very helpful- especially on your first few faces. If you draw as a hobby or a profession then it shouldn't take you much time to do your face-up. If you don't draw much then I'd probably say it's a worthwhile investment considering each head costs $42.00. <--- that's a large expense to eat if you don't like the result.

 

-I like the idea of the make pen as it can give a rough outline of how the faceup will look. And the fact that it'll be a sort of guideline and a way of balancing the symmetry of the faceup. It can also be easily removed and reapplied.

 

I totally agree. I do use one- not for drawing the face but to mark my key features for symmetry.

 

What about making stencils out of tape?

 

I don't do that because stencils can bleed under the tape and can leave unintended rough lines and edges that are potentially difficult to correct. I really go for precision, work in layers and am kind of an insane-nutso about making things even, so I freehand my face-ups. Other folks on here have certainly used the tape method and I'm sure they'll be more than happy to share their experiences. *^^* If you read back through the thread a couple folks have given links to their recent projects- it really helps to see the final results so you can make the best choices for you!

 

It just eventually comes down to what you're comfortable with to get the result you like the best. Good luck and let us know how it goes~

 

(Oh, and ask away if you have more questions. ^^)

Question about faceups:

 

Is the ZM Make Pen worth buying for the outline of the lashes and what not?

 

-I like the idea of the make pen as it can give a rough outline of how the faceup will look. And the fact that it'll be a sort of guideline and a way of balancing the symmetry of the faceup. It can also be easily removed and reapplied.

 

What about making stencils out of tape?

 

I'm one of the folks using tape and such.

 

Here are the prototyping links.

 

http://www.figure.fm/post/en/24671/Face+Up+Prototyping+My+Dollfie+Dream+Project+Progress.html

 

Beware about the bleeding part.

But if you have airbrush, bleeding is not a problem here.

Just make sure it is thin layer.

 

And here are the latest results.

 

http://www.figure.fm/post/en/25383/Dollfie+Fashion+Spring+Essence.html

 

Some opinion, I found out that using tape is not so practical when I can actually draw using color pencils.

But yeah, for people who rarely draw, tape method is the safest.

You can even erase the mistakes with just a rubber eraser.