Dollfie Dream Stain Prevention & Removal FAQ

Umm since smartdoll are made of vinyl too. Is it relatively ok to use this guide for them? Not sure if anyone had any success. My doll has some dark/black plastic stains from the heat from her cloths ;(.

 

I'd like to know the answer to this also Although I don't have any stains on my smart doll yet, it'd be good to know for future use. I did have kind of a scare though the other day that I thought I had gotten a stain on her knees (I had her kneeling down for a while) but it turned out to just be some harmless dust that had acbleepulated that she sat on and I was able to wipe it away. Man, now I know how it feels like when you have those heart attack stain moments...

Hi~~

 

 

I've seen some people asking here about if semi white skin yellowish with the treatment, and if is okay to use 5% instead of 10% but I haven't found any answers to that.

 

Im totally new and my only girl is a Mariko Summer festival ver. wich so far has a few stains behind her ears (I REALLY don't know where those came from) and since they aren't visible Im cool with them existing, but I'm quite worried about what should I do if she gets a stain in a not so okay place. At first I though it was okay to do like with a normal skin girl, but after all those questions I'm feeling quite worried abour what to do.

I used Dream Rescue Cream and acne cream on SWS and haven't seen any problems. It seems to work just the same as with Normal Skin.

Thanks for answering! I though that would be the case, but after some of the coments that I read I becaume nervous >

is it okay to use plastic gloves instead of cotton gloves to prevent stain from touching with bare hands? thank yoy

Is it possible to use 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Cream on the internal frame, specifically the wrist, to remove stains?

Is it possible to use 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Cream on the internal frame, specifically the wrist, to remove stains?

 

Since the frame is a totally different plastic and the skin/body is vinyl, they don't react the same. The vinyl is very porous so it absorbs the Oxy10 quite easily. The frame parts are a hard plastic and don't absorb the Oxy10 hardly at all. I haven't had any of my frame parts get stained before but I did have some paint rub onto a wrist before. All I did was take the whole hand/wrist piece out of the arm, pull the hand off and then wipe the frame piece down with rubbing alcohol and a Magic Eraser. That cleaned it up really well and didn't leave anything behind. I'd try that and see if it works out.

 

 

Billy

Is it possible to use 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Cream on the internal frame, specifically the wrist, to remove stains?

 

Since the frame is a totally different plastic and the skin/body is vinyl, they don't react the same. The vinyl is very porous so it absorbs the Oxy10 quite easily. The frame parts are a hard plastic and don't absorb the Oxy10 hardly at all. I haven't had any of my frame parts get stained before but I did have some paint rub onto a wrist before. All I did was take the whole hand/wrist piece out of the arm, pull the hand off and then wipe the frame piece down with rubbing alcohol and a Magic Eraser. That cleaned it up really well and didn't leave anything behind. I'd try that and see if it works out.

 

 

Billy

 

For acrylic based paints I find denatured alcohol is usually the best option. Get that in the hardware store, but its not cheap. Works like a charm on resin, and should work on hard plastic. No idea what effect it could have on vinyl.

I tried rubbing alcohol and a Magic Eraser, but nothing changed.

Most definitely keeping note of these tips!

HI!

 

So I'm curious how stainable dollfies are? I notice that a lot of outfits (nearly all of them) have a note saying 'dark colours may stain dolls'.

 

Is it a common thing for stains to occur or is this just the company covering their butts?

HI!

 

So I'm curious how stainable dollfies are? I notice that a lot of outfits (nearly all of them) have a note saying 'dark colours may stain dolls'.

 

Is it a common thing for stains to occur or is this just the company covering their butts?

 

Both, honestly. Vinyl stains easier than resin, so pretty much any clothing/wig/etc that would stain a resin BJD would also stain a DD, and probably would stain them considerably worse over the same amount of time. Natural and semi-white DDs are less prone to staining than white skin ones due to the pigmentation, and resin dolls work in a similar manner.

 

Hence why most major companies make flesh toned/white body suits and wig caps. The added layer helps prevent such issues, but it's not a perfect method, especially if you're trying to stuff your girl into a tighter outfit. Some companies do stain testing on their clothes before marketing them to the public (like Danny Choo and quite a few Etsy sellers), but Volks is notoriously good at making outfits that stain. A good example would be the Saber Maid Dress, which is known to stain girls pretty horribly in under 10 minutes.

 

Basically, any clothes you buy for your DD that have dark/vibrant fabrics or threads could be potential stain monsters, so companies tend to slap that on there for good measure in case anyone tries to claim for damages or what-have-you. Personally, I keep a couple of already damaged white skin DD parts to do stain testing on. I figure that if it doesn't stain white skin, it's probably safe for all of my girls to wear.

Oh god.

Time to get body suits and wig caps and... whatever else a newbie will need?

this is a really helpful thread and i'm relieved to see that it's safe to use this method for removing stains from DD's-- i've done this with one of my 1/6 scale obitsu's before (her previous owner had given her a sharpie faceup) and it worked great, but i'm willing to risk a little more on a 1/6 scale doll than a 1/3 scale one :p

 

i had been thinking about getting a few of the body stockings but figured they probably weren't too effective... after seeing them recommended multiple times here, however, i might just break down and get one or two!

i had been thinking about getting a few of the body stockings but figured they probably weren't too effective... after seeing them recommended multiple times here, however, i might just break down and get one or two!

Body stockings aren't very effective, but body suits are! The stockings are a mesh material. It's still useful but don't rely on it alone to protect against stains.

I know the full body one Volks sells works. Mine got all stained but the doll's body under it didn't.

I know the full body one Volks sells works.  Mine got all stained but the doll's body under it didn't.

These are the body stockings, they're a mesh material that has a lot of gaps. If you put on black staining socks, you'll get a nice mesh pattern of black on your doll's legs when you remove the socks (－‸ლ) It's still very useful for stuff that might lightly stain, and won't be in firm contact with the doll (so not black socks).

 

This is a body suit. Those are great at protecting against stains, but unfortunately they're kind of ugly. I've found though that it's great to cut them up for parts. Early on I ended up getting a couple body suits but never really used them, instead relying on washing the clothes and using Volks' stain prevention tape. Washing & tape weren't good enough to deal with these socks 100%, so I cut the legs off of one of the suits (if you look at the photo carefully you can see a slight colour change near the top of the knee because the sock was too short; I did the rest of her thigh with tape),

 

Miku Shorts by bodolza, on Flickr

 

For this outfit, I cut up another body suit above the waist to protect Melty's legs (I tested these socks on a spare DD2 foot I bought and they stained quickly).

 

Vermilion Melty by bodolza, on Flickr

 

I washed them a few times and then she wore the socks over the body suit (which were now just tights). If you zoom in on the photo at Flickr, you can see the fabric of the body suit on her thighs. She had that on for a couple of months and there were no stains on her afterwards.

 

OTOH, I had Sakuya wearing a body stocking (not a suit!) with this outfit, with the top half hidden above her hips instead of covering her chest,

 

Sakuya, White Tiger by bodolza, on Flickr

 

I was confident that the socks themselves didn't stain, but the black garter straps attached to them were known to stain. So I put some Volks stain protection tape where the straps were on the front and back of each leg, and used the body stocking (I didn't have a third suit to cut up to the waist). After a couple months there were stains on the front and back of both thighs, going through the tape

When Volks USA gets some SWS body suits back in stock I plan on getting a couple to cut up as you said you've done. But my question is how to do finish the cut edge to keep them from unraveling?

When Volks USA gets some SWS body suits back in stock I plan on getting a couple to cut up as you said you've done. But my question is how to do finish the cut edge to keep them from unraveling?

 

 

From experience on sewing you can buy Fringe Glue or Adhesive, or just hand sew them with white thread. Although for body suits I don't really know the material itself if it even unravels. Sorry if this wasn't any help lol, I've never owned any.

But my question is how to do finish the cut edge to keep them from unraveling?

You can't really, but you are putting clothes on top of them (usually tightly) so they're not likely to fall apart themselves.

Some questions. A while back I posted about my 1st stain, whelp I tried treating it. I bought some Dream Rescue from Volks USA. It was gooey and had a bunch of white beads in it (Well, not quite but best way to describe it.). Is that normal, or is it old? I got a bulb and preheated an upper leg and then applied it and left it under the light all day. I then rinsed it off with warm water and a bit of Ivory bar soap. The stain is gone, but the area the cream was on is lighter color now and raised. I've done a couple more areas of that leg, and the stain is coming off, but the leg does seems not smooth, discolored, and feels oily like it's not completely clean of the cream. I reread the 1st page today and saw that turn light off after a couple hours (Oops!). Have I ruined this leg now? Is there something I can do? When she 1st got stained I ordered replacement parts, so I'm not out of a leg for her, but I'd still like to know what I can do to fit it, and learn to better treat stains so that I don't have to keep ordering new body parts.

This thread has some good info in it about what to expect when you use Dollfie Dream rescue cream:

 

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=11391

 

It has a mild abrasive in it, so that's why it feels gritty.

 

Good luck!

Linda S.

galatia9

Some questions.  A while back I posted about my 1st stain, whelp I tried treating it.  I bought some Dream Rescue from Volks USA.  It was gooey and had a bunch of white beads in it (Well, not quite but best way to describe it.).  Is that normal, or is it old?

That's normal.

 

I got a bulb and preheated an upper leg and then applied it and left it under the light all day.

Ah, the heat lamp is only when using Benzoyl Peroxide, you're not supposed to use it with the cream! The cream is Volks' own formulation that doesn't use a heat lamp, and it's very strong. When using Benzoyl Peroxide, you heat up the vinyl so it abosrbs the stuff into it easily. If you heat it too long, you risk damaging the vinyl and (I think) causing yellowing.

 

The Dream Rescue cream is really strong and if you leave it on too long (over three days) it's known to damage vinyl. I know someone left it on for two weeks because Volks' early information suggested something about that, and the vinyl got all bubbly and ruined.

 

The stain is gone, but the area the cream was on is lighter color now and raised.

If it's raised, that can't be good :/

 

learn to better treat stains so that I don't have to keep ordering new body parts.

Well, if using the Dream Rescue cream, it's helpful to read that thread that Linda posted above. However, Volks now has posted reasonably comprehensive English instructions here:

 

http://www.dollfiedream.tokyo/en/dollfiedream/care_skin.html/

 

You can use 10% Benzoyl Peroxide instead by following the instructions, which I think is safer but it's a lot more work (have to monitor turn off lamp every four hours and reapply every 8, etc) and takes longer — unless the Dream Rescue cream is old because they only have a shelf life of a year. The manufacturing date of the cream is on the plastic bag it comes in.

 

 

So, in the future:

 

Using Dream Rescue Cream

If you have fresh Dream Rescue cream (less than a year old), follow the instructions on the page linked above. Generally speaking, my method is to apply it thinly to the vinyl (being careful not to scratch the vinyl because it's abrasive). I dip a cotton swab into the tub and spread it on. Wrap it loosely in plastic wrap to keep it moist (don't squeeze the wrap, just cover it), and after two days remove it by wiping with a wet, white paper towel. Let it dry. If it's still stained (it usually will be), repeat the process, but I usually wait for a few hours (or a day) before trying again to let the vinyl 'relax' or something.

 

If the cream isn't fresh enough, it will do almost nothing.

 

Using 10% Benzoyl Peroxide

Gently clean the vinyl using a moist magic eraser. Let it sit under a heat lamp for several minutes to heat it up a bit first, then apply a somewhat thin layer of cream to the affected areas (I don't think putting on a thick layer will help, because the stuff that's not directly touching the surface will take a lot longer to seep into the vinyl, if ever. Plus it's cheaper.). Let it sit under the lamp for up to four hours; if the lamp is close to the vinyl it's more effective but don't let the vinyl get hot, or even too warm. If you put your hand near the vinyl the lamp's light should just feel nicely warm on your hand, if that makes sense. Hot = bad, cold = pointless.

 

After four hours, turn off the lamp. After 8 hours wipe it off and start over. It will keep working if you leave it on (and not really damage the vinyl because the cream is relatively weak and the lamp's off), but it's much more effective to start over again with a heat lamp.

 

 

In the end, your goal should not be to get the stains 100% gone, maybe 90-95% so you can still see it a bit. The last bit will go away over time soon enough (I mean, unless it's somewhere that makes stuff look ugly, but getting that last 10% to zero can take more effort than what it's worth, depending on the stain's mood). Often if I'm changing outfits and notice a stain, I'll spend one session with the dream rescue cream (so 2+ days). The stain may still be there but if it's light enough and the next outfit is covering it anyway, I'll leave it alone. When I get back to it, the stain may be gone, or maybe one more treatment will get rid of it.

As someone who commented to use a lamp in conjunction with the cream, I feel bad now.

 

Cynthia and Amber both got stains on their legs a couple of months ago. I treated them with Dream Rescue and a heat lamp. I got the stain removed, but in the end the area was very slightly puffy. According to the article I read here on Dollfie Dreams, the puffiness was somewhat normal and would fade over time.

 

These weren't the first stains I had treated. However, they were the largest I had dealt with so far. I had happened upon the heat lamp instructions after I had attempted to use Dream Rescue without a heat lamp and reached no results whatsoever with tiny stains. However, after using the heat lamp method, a stain which hadn't shown the slightest sign of removal after sitting in the cream for multiple days was gone in an hour with the heat lamp.

 

These last stains on my girls left the most notable puffiness I had seen so far. Since then, Amber and Cynthia have been in their bodysuits. Upon seeing this thread, I decided to check on them and see if there was any lasting sign.

 

For Cynthia (a DDDy normal skin body) the puffiness is gone. However the area where the puffiness once was is noticeable if I directly look for it because of a very slight difference in the finish of the skin. The best way to describe it is the regular skin has a slight gloss to it, while the affected area is slightly more matte.

 

On Amber (a DD3 normal skin body) a remnant of the puffiness can be seen if it's looked for. The finish difference is slightly more pronounced here as well. I don't think it is noticeable on a casual look, but on a careful inspection even without knowing exactly where the area is, the spot will be apparent.

 

I tried looking for similar spots from previous stain treatments, but couldn't find any. I tried to photograph the area on Amber, but the image doesn't really illustrate much of anything.

I used the lamp because the cream did nothing on it's own, with the lamp the stains are gone. Well, I guess I'll keep playing with it as I can't ruin what is already ruined. Perhaps less heat and less time with the cream and I'll find a works for me method. Funny thing is the treated areas that didn't puff up are more shiny then the original. I'll read Volks' instructions and the other thread too. Thanks all.