The MADh Vinyl Laboratory

 

What follows is a collection of links to various tutorials and information pages on repair, maintenance, and some modifications on mostly Obitsu 50cm bodies. Much of this information is also applicable to Azone 50cm, Angel Philias, Parabox 40cm to 50cm, Real Art Projects, Visuadolls, and Yamato VMF50s.

With the exception of the Mimiwoo tutorial all of these references were authored by the dedicated vinylologists here at the MV Lab.

Currently there are a few titles without links. These are tutorials I know I have posted somewhere but I just haven't re-found them yet. Some of these posts were on other forums that have gone the way of the dodo. Posts that have been permanently lost to the ether will eventually be reconstructed and posted in this thread.

 

1/3 Scale Non Obitsu Heads on Obitsu Bodies (hardware version)

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1931

 

Resin head on Obitsu Bodies (Modding the neck piece w/ wire)

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10755

 

Obitsu Bust Replacement

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1432

 

Ears, the Removable Kitty Kat Kind

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=67

 

The New Obitsu Neck Piece

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=66

 

Mimiwoo tutorial- DD head on Obitsu body

http://blog.livedoor.jp/mimiwoo/archives/51569280.html

 

65cm Neckectomy

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=8483#p100219

 

About Hands

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255649

 

Resin Hands on Obitsu 60cm Body

 

Loose ankles 50cm

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/3536-vmf50-amp-angel-philia-discussion-thread-nsfw-doll-nudity/?do=findComment&comment=156178

 

Obitsu 50cm Torso Replacement

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11764

 

Connecting 50cm Hips and Shoulders

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=254925

 

Elbow Replacement

https://denofangels.com/posts/12162677/

 

60cm Leg Removal

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=254910

 

50cm Hand Orientation

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=254914

 

Eye Beveler

 https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=254922

 

Head Removal with the New Neck Piece

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255644

 

Magnetic Tail Attachment

 

Zip Tie Shoulder Reinforcement

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18399-fortifying-parts-for-my-apobitsuparabox/?do=findComment&comment=254679

 

 

Selected Visual References

VMF50 Reference Photos

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=55&start=30#p81099

 

All the Busts

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=284255

 

 

Kizuna & Chitose’s Skin Care Guide

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/13527-kizuna-and-chitose-now-with-nsfw/?do=findComment&comment=205497

 

Vindoll Overview

http://www.dolliehsanctuary.com/sanctuary/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12181#p135667

 

Incomplete History: Yamato to Arcadia to Angel Philia

http://www.dollfiedreams.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=3723&p=207936#p207936

 

Angel Philia Soft Skin Review

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/3536-vmf50-amp-angel-philia-discussion-thread-nsfw-doll-nudity/?do=findComment&comment=198305

 

Obitsu Skin Colors

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/3536-vmf50-amp-angel-philia-discussion-thread-nsfw-doll-nudity/?do=findComment&comment=254909

 

Obitsu 50cm/Volks MDD Hand Comparison

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=254924

 

Obitsu Large Body Comparison

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255645

 

60cm and 65cm Elbows

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255646

 

Obitsu Feet 65cm to 55cm

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255647

 

Obitsu/Angel Philia Tan and other Tan Skins

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255651

 

The Versatile Gretel Head

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=255657

 

Yamato, Angel Philia, and RAP Head Sculpts

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=256488

 

Obitsu 65cm Male Measurements

https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/18493-the-madh-vinyl-laboratory/?do=findComment&comment=258268

 

Edited October 3, 2022 by K-2
content added

Awesome.

Many, MANY  T H A N K s for this collection !!!

This is absolutely great for a newbie like me. Thanks sooooo much for taking the time to make it! it's greatly appreciated!

This post and those that follow are listed in the links above.

 

Edited October 1, 2020 by K-2

This article addresses one of the eccentricities of the Obitsu 50cm body: the motion of the wrist joint. The Obitsu 50cm hand/wrist joint is very flexible and replicates all the common wrist motions, but the "default" motion direction is a little weird. This is a choice that was made at the factory for who knows what reason.

I will be referencing the motion direction indicated in the image below.

 

 

The Obitsu 50cm wrist joint part consists off a long peg that inserts into the forearm, a wrist ball, which houses a hinge joint, and a double tab that inserts into the hand and holds the hand in place.

On the normal humans the most common wrist/hand movement is moving the hand up and down, the pitch motion in my image. On the 50cm for some reason the tabs on the wrist joint are oriented to hold the hand so that the wrist hinge joint is in the yaw movement. While wrists do move this way it is not the most common or comfortable wrist movement. Try it with your own wrist.

You can rotate the hand vinyl 90 degrees so it is oriented so the hinge moves the hand in the more natural pitch direction. The oval shape of the tabs and the opening of the hand vinyl makes this not the most comfortable of fits, but it will work on the default hands. I have most of my 50cm hands oriented like this. Many of the option hands have smaller openings and flatter inner spaces making orienting the hands to the pitch position difficult. If you are really dedicated like me (a.k.a. crazy) you can sand/file the tabs so that the option hands fit on the joint part in this natural position better. I have wrist joint parts with all my option hands mounted on them and have been modding the tabs to accommodate the various option hands as I use them. Modding the wrist joint in such a way can mean that some hands will not fit firmly. In such cases a little eye putty filling the interior of the hand will remedy this.

 

 

This was my only non-eye pocket head, the Gretel head of my ridiculously busty girl, Nyoko-chan.

The obligatory "Before" shot. Note the shadowing from the lids on the eyes.

 

 

These are the eyes after I removed them. They were advertised as 18mm (actually more like 19mm) with high domes.

 

   

 

This is what the inside of the head looked like. Nothing has been done at this point. The stuff around the eye holes is residual eye puddy. You can see there was a little "factory" beveling.

 

       

 

Here's the beveler from Luts

 

 

I used the beveler in my variable speed Dremel at a low setting, about 2 on the Dremel's 0 to 6 scale. I chose the lower settings for better control and so as not to heat (melt) the vinyl. Go slow, this was probably less than 10 seconds of grinding!

 

 

Here's the first "after" shot. The eye hole on the right has been beveled.

 

 

Here's an after shot, the eye on the left beveled, the other not beveled. The slight bevel brought the dome farther out of the eye hole and as you can see, it's brighter and reflecting a lot more light. I did try to light both halves of the head evenly for this shot. I'm just holding the eyes in with my fingers so getting them even was not easy. Unfortunately, the area beveled was also where her eyelashes were glued on so they were almost totally ground off (oops!).

 

 

And here is the "After" shot, eyes in place and puddy installed. She looks a little "bug eyed" without her eyelashes.

 

 

Overall, I thought the beveler worked well, bringing the eye "out from the shadows". The pupils are now much more visible than they were before. I would also guess that the actual eye shape (oval, round, etc.) would have a bit to do with the relative success of the operation. Some of the "flatter" shaped eyes might not fit into the beveled area as much. Also, I would do this (if I ever do it again) before the face-up. There was quite a bit of handling involved in doing this and obviously if you slip up you could easily grind off too much and remove some eyelid. I would hate to have that happen after doing the face-up.

 

One of the reasons the hip/leg joint can be hard to make completely is that the vinyl of the abdomen gets pushed into this joint and prevents the two parts from mating completely.

Here's a look at the two parts at the leg/hip joint without the vinyl. You can see there is a circular groove around the peg of the waist part. The tube of the hip part needs to fit cleanly and completely into this groove in order for the joint to be made firm.

 

Frequently the abdomen vinyl is trimmed very tightly around the opening.

 

With the vinyl so close it is common to pull the edge of the vinyl in between the two parts as you push the two parts together. When this happens, the two parts do not mate completely and if a big enough piece of vinyl is pulled in, the additional pressure can crack the outside ring of the waist part and/or the tube wall of the hip joint. The joint may seem firm at first but after a move or two the vinyl crushes and/or the hip joint part cracks and the unlocked leg becomes "swingy".

 

A preventative measure for this is to take a sharp xacto knife and trim the vinyl of the abdomen around this hole. The hole can be easily enlarged and is hidden by the leg parts so you don't have to worry about making the cut cosmetically perfect. This trimming can also be done to the torso vinyl at the shoulder, which also suffers from excess vinyl being pulled into the receiving tube.

 

With the shoulder joint, it is very easy to miss the receiving tube of the chest part.

 

With all the adjustability of the 50cm shoulder part it is easy for the receiving tubes to become misaligned with the hole in the chest vinyl. It would be a worth removing the chest vinyl, "zeroing out" the articulations of the chest part and inspecting it for damage. It is not uncommon for the receiving tubes on the chest part to crack. These cracks can be very fine and hard to see. Inserting the shoulder part onto the tube can help make any cracks appear. These cracks can be repaired by applying super glue to the crack and clamping with small zip ties. If the cracks are too large or the tube is falling apart replacement will be necessary.

This is one of those older tutorials that was on another forum, which has gone to internet heaven. Consequently I don't have a copy of the original text so I tried to recreate the text from the pictures alone. Kinda.

 

Removing the new neck piece from the head is not recommended. If at all possible leave the neck piece attached to the head. If you only need to remove the head from the body you can follow this procedure and stop once the head is off. If you must remove the neck piece from the head continue on but see the tutorial The New Obitsu Neck Piece for details on proper installation of the neck piece back into the head.

As with all such handling clean hands are a must.

To remove the head and neck piece, grasp the head over the top, squeezing the head at or below the ears. You want to create enough pressure so the head and the neck piece stay properly connected to one another. Keep squeezing the head and twist side to side while pulling up.

 

You should now have the head and neck piece assembly removed from the body.

 

To continue with the neck piece removal you will need to open the head by removing the head cap. Squeeze the head on the sides again. You might need to reposition your fingers up a little higher on the head, on the ears or above. This should open the seam between the head and the head cap. Once that gap opens up you should be able to pry off the head cap from the back. Always work from the back away from the face-up.

 

With the head cap off the inside of the head is exposed revealing the top of the neck piece and the eye pockets. In this image the neck piece is properly seated with the edges of the hole in the base of the head running through the grooves in the bottom of the neck piece locking collar.

 

To continue removing the neck piece, heat the head around the neck piece to soften the vinyl a bit. Try and avoid heating the face area.

 

Once the base of the head is warm, you should be able to push the neck piece up into and out of the hole and remove from the head.

 

When it comes time to reattach the head/neck piece to the body you will want to make sure the neck post at the top of the torso part is centered in the vinyl of the neck.

This is image shows the larger Obitsu bodies. Kaji is a Seedring (55cm) with the Parabox macho chest and 60cm legs.

 

 

This image shows the internals of the 65cm arms and that the 65cm elbow is identical to the 60cm elbow joint.

This image shows the various Obitsu feet from the 65cms down to the 55cm, their part numbers and their length.

50cm Wrist Joint Part and Hands

Overview

The wrist joint parts of the Obitsu 50cm are identical, left and right. The joint assembly consists of the ball joint made up of an inner disk and two outer hemispherical ball sections. The outer ball sections are connected to the shaft/peg, which inserts into the forearm. The inner disk part of the joint is connected to the “paddle”, which inserts into the vinyl hand part. The paddle section consists of two main parts, an oblong disk, which is positioned flat against the joint ball and a connected half oval part, which protrudes into the hand. The oblong shape of the first disk prevents the vinyl hand from rotating easily on the hand serves to hold the hand vinyl on the wrist joint. Hand rotation is accomplished by the shaft of the wrist joint turning in the forearm.

Wrist joint part side view. Apparent size difference is due to perspective.

 

Wrist joint part, end view.

 

Installation and Removal

To easily install or remove hands from the wrist joint heating the hand is recommended to prevent undue stress to the wrist joint. Once heated the vinyl softens allowing easier insertion of the paddle end of the wrist joint. If hands are to be swapped often, the quickest and safest way to change hands is to have a set of wrist joints for each pair of hands. Pulling the wrist joint out of the forearm is relatively simple and does not stress the parts.

Hands, like most vinyl parts are made by pouring hot liquid vinyl into a mold. This method can produce parts with varying wall thicknesses. Furthermore, trimming of the excess vinyl can vary slightly. Along with different hand shapes, this means the hole where the wrist part is to be inserted can vary in size and shape. A small hole can mean the wrist joint will be difficult to insert. If the hole is too big, the hand may be loose and can fall off. If the hole in the hand part is too small, take a sharp hobby knife like and x-acto #11 and trim a tiny bit of vinyl from the inside of the hole. Trim a little bit at a time till the wrist joint paddle goes in and is still held by the oblong disk on the paddle. Be careful not to trim too much as this will make the hole too large and the oblong disk section will not hold the hand on.
 

Option hands showing some of the different opening sizes.

 

If the hands slips off the wrist part too easily, first make sure the hand is completely seated on the wrist joint. The hand vinyl should be completely covering the oblong disk section. If the oblong disk is covered completely and the hand is still too loose, you can stuff a little bit of eye putty in the hand to wedge against the paddle section. A thick bodied, space filling adhesive like hot glue can also be used if the hand installation is to be more permanent.

Properly and improperly seated hands on wrist joint part.

 

The Gretel Head on various Size Bodies

Thank you so much, K-2! This is a wonderful collection of information you have documented over the years. I appreciate you sharing so much and having great skills with your camera. I'm bookmarking this so I can share it when these topics come up.

Will an Angel Philia 50cm head fit and look anatomically correct on an Obitsu 60 body? The head looks kind of small even on a 50cm body.

On 1/4/2021 at 8:58 PM, Rneiro said:

Will an Angel Philia 50cm head fit and look anatomically correct on an Obitsu 60 body? The head looks kind of small even on a 50cm body.

Most of the AP heads will look small on the 60cm body. Some "big hair" could remedy that but as always it's a matter of personal taste.

The Parabox Gretel head was designed for the 60cm body, but looks fine on the 50cm body and the 65cm body.

A "bigger" head (like DD or Obitsu 50-xx series) looks more anime stile on a smaller body like AP/Obitsu48.

Normal AP heads looks proportioned to the body, but smaller than anime-proportioned ones, so upscaling the body fron 48 to 60 cm will make the head looks even smaller and I don't think it's something good to see.

I vote for this topic to be pinned as important.

K-2 emerges from the Angry Dome to shake his fist.

We'll say it's fists that are shaking, just to keep things 'family friendly.'  😁