Obitsu-Parabox-Visuadoll-DollyPop (WIP) Doll Discussion Thread

I am late in reporting this!

ObitsuDoll Manatsu is available for purchase as a Semi-order doll! I saw notice a few months ago saying that she would be available until December 31st of 2023. Perhaps that has changed. It appears Obitsu has limited the eye design options for all Semi-order dolls as well.

The 50cm brassiere and panty set has been discontinued and will not be restocked once it has been sold out.

Here is more news from Parabox!

Parabox released many new wigs in different sizes! I am not sure how they all look, but the 7.5 size section is linked here as I have been browsing that section as a Parabox superfan.

Edited November 23, 2021 by Rneiro

4 hours ago, Rneiro said:

Cream developer? I have some questions.. 

Do you know which method (hydrogen peroxide or cream) is most effective in removing the most yellowing the fastest?

Can it be used in place of Dream Rescue for color stain removal?

And can it be used without sun or UV light or is light a must?

40 volume developer for hair, like this.  It's a cream containing 12% hydrogen peroxide, used for lightening hair (and for cleaning retro consoles, toys, and sneakers, these days!).

Apparently using either liquid hydrogen peroxide or cream developer are almost identical in effectiveness, so it really just depends which you can get easier or prefer to work with.  I personally think hydrogen peroxide is the better choice; it gives a very even coverage and can be reused.  Cream developer cannot be reused and can be hard to spread evenly, and also needs to be wrapped in plastic to keep it from drying out during the process.  You can get hydrogen peroxide in different concentrations, like 3%, 6%, and 12%, while 40 volume developer is usually just 12%.

I don't personally know if it can be used in leu of Dream Rescue, but in theory it should.  It's been used to help remove marks from MLP toys, so it should also work for vinyl dolls.  For reference, Dream Rescue contains benzoyl peroxide, which is the 'beaching' or stain-removing agent in the mixture, and is almost identical to hydrogen peroxide for this specific application.  If you were going to use this as a stain remover and not an all-over yellowing remover, I think the 40 volume cream developer is the better choice, as you can spot-treat with it, instead of submerging an entire body part and risking it no longer matching the rest of the body.

A source of UV light is needed for the reaction to take place, but you can also just use heat, though it may not be the ideal choice in some cases.  Most situations are going to get some ambient light (via windows or indoor lights) anyway, so at the very least you can just set your 'tub' by a window, though it may take longer than applying a direct UV light or heat source.  Some of the sneaker cleaning methods apply cream developer and heat via a heat gun, but shoe materials (ie: fabrics) are much more porous compared to vinyl and plastics, so i don't think this method is the best choice for our doll hobby needs, as the fabric probably brightens very quickly, while vinyl/plastic will not.  Applying heat may also be more dangerous than just putting the container under UV light, so again, it all depends.

It's also important to remember that while Retrobriting can remove yellowing from plastics, there's always a chance that it will not restore your doll to the original colour, as pink pigments fade easily and may potentially be lost, even after the yellowing is removed.  You may end up with a doll that is no longer yellow, but is slightly lighter than it was originally, so this should always be used with caution and an understanding that your doll cannot be magically fully restored via this method.

TLDR; A hydrogen peroxide bath (ideally with a concentration of 12%) with UV light exposure (LED or sunlight) is still probably your best, most cost- and time-effective method for removing yellowing from vinyl doll parts.  Use 40 volume cream developer for spot-treatments, like removing small stains.

omg sorry for an entire wall of text...!

On 4/16/2021 at 8:21 PM, nanika said:

 

• Iris Collect Petit: Uses standard Obitsu frame and AZT8-45 outer skin.  I haven't had the opportunity to compare it to an Obitsu 45cm standard body, as I'm not really sure if it has been used yet. 

It's not a huge difference, but the Azone all around has a little more girth all over from the torso to the limbs.

Edited January 19, 2022 by chef_mai

On 11/23/2021 at 2:17 PM, OccultBeast said:

40 volume developer for hair, like this.  It's a cream containing 12% hydrogen peroxide, used for lightening hair (and for cleaning retro consoles, toys, and sneakers, these days!).

Apparently using either liquid hydrogen peroxide or cream developer are almost identical in effectiveness, so it really just depends which you can get easier or prefer to work with.  I personally think hydrogen peroxide is the better choice; it gives a very even coverage and can be reused.  Cream developer cannot be reused and can be hard to spread evenly, and also needs to be wrapped in plastic to keep it from drying out during the process.  You can get hydrogen peroxide in different concentrations, like 3%, 6%, and 12%, while 40 volume developer is usually just 12%.

I don't personally know if it can be used in leu of Dream Rescue, but in theory it should.  It's been used to help remove marks from MLP toys, so it should also work for vinyl dolls.  For reference, Dream Rescue contains benzoyl peroxide, which is the 'beaching' or stain-removing agent in the mixture, and is almost identical to hydrogen peroxide for this specific application.  If you were going to use this as a stain remover and not an all-over yellowing remover, I think the 40 volume cream developer is the better choice, as you can spot-treat with it, instead of submerging an entire body part and risking it no longer matching the rest of the body.

A source of UV light is needed for the reaction to take place, but you can also just use heat, though it may not be the ideal choice in some cases.  Most situations are going to get some ambient light (via windows or indoor lights) anyway, so at the very least you can just set your 'tub' by a window, though it may take longer than applying a direct UV light or heat source.  Some of the sneaker cleaning methods apply cream developer and heat via a heat gun, but shoe materials (ie: fabrics) are much more porous compared to vinyl and plastics, so i don't think this method is the best choice for our doll hobby needs, as the fabric probably brightens very quickly, while vinyl/plastic will not.  Applying heat may also be more dangerous than just putting the container under UV light, so again, it all depends.

It's also important to remember that while Retrobriting can remove yellowing from plastics, there's always a chance that it will not restore your doll to the original colour, as pink pigments fade easily and may potentially be lost, even after the yellowing is removed.  You may end up with a doll that is no longer yellow, but is slightly lighter than it was originally, so this should always be used with caution and an understanding that your doll cannot be magically fully restored via this method.

TLDR; A hydrogen peroxide bath (ideally with a concentration of 12%) with UV light exposure (LED or sunlight) is still probably your best, most cost- and time-effective method for removing yellowing from vinyl doll parts.  Use 40 volume cream developer for spot-treatments, like removing small stains.

omg sorry for an entire wall of text...!

Don't worry. I post entire walls of text very often!

I will be sticking to plain hydrogen peroxide then! Hydrogen peroxide seems to be the safer (and cheaper) method for overall yellowing removal.

I haven't posted on here in a while! It is mainly because I have been on the Angel Philia thread more than this one.

My spring semester starts on January 18th, so I had been eyeing an Obitsu PocketDoll that came in a limited-time skin tone, Sunlight, which looks sort of tan, but is a little lighter. However, Obitsu only offered their PocketDolls for a limited time back during the summer, if I remember correctly.

This doll would be the perfect size to carry inside my purse (too expensive to go into my backpack) and would serve as a comfort object alongside my Krabby Pokemon plush which does go into my backpack. I hope to find one used for a LOT less than 15,000 yen, which is how much it would cost new.

Edited January 16, 2022 by Rneiro

(I've moved this info to a new topic)

 

Edited January 20, 2022 by chef_mai

On 1/19/2022 at 10:38 PM, chef_mai said:

(I've moved this info to a new topic)

 

Err.. I guess everything can't be covered in this thread or else the front page will be a brick wall full of info.

Edited January 22, 2022 by Rneiro

Oof. I haven’t posted on here in awhile!

Well, Parabox has released new hand- and mask-painted faceups and custom basic sets for their May head. Here are some examples!

40cm May Custom Basic Set (Faceup 1)- 27,000 JPY

 

May Faceup 2 - 3,500 yen (product number: HD-PB-MAY2)

Takes 16mm to 18mm eyes. Is in the 40/45cm heads section.

Her cheeks look so squishy!

There are also new size 4.5-9 inch wigs available! All pictures are from ParaboxShop and/or ParaboxJP’s Twitter page. The pictures below are from this Tweet specifically.

I am also working on an idea creating masks to paint doll heads myself! Think of them as stencils, but for painting doll heads instead.

Parabox also mask-paints doll heads, so those heads are lot cheaper and can be produced in large quantities as compared to their hand-painted counterparts!

I am not good at painting doll heads (and wasted tons of paint and MSC trying), but still would like to become a famous faceup artist like Ronronshuka Couture!

I’ve seen bids for her heads reach over a thousand USD all the time! I feel as if I would be getting into doing faceups for the wrong reasons.

1 hour ago, Rneiro said:

I’ve seen bids for her heads reach over a thousand USD all the time! I feel as if I would be getting into doing faceups for the wrong reasons.

She’s only been auctioning her stuff on YJA for the past six months or so but it’s not unusual for her heads to go for several thousands of dollars, and her last Snow Princess head went for nearly USD $10k.

There are many other artists that are also able to sell floating heads for the equivalent of thousands of dollars, but the custom doll community in Japan is a whole different ball game compared to other places. They’re not just selling at those prices because the heads are cute or because they’re a brand name—these artists usually build up a cult following on Twitter and at events by interacting with their fans, and they drum up hype for each head by taking professional quality shots and “leaking” pictures in the days leading up to the auction to send their fans into a frenzy.

I think it would be very difficult to fetch the same prices for custom heads and accessories outside of Japan because there’s nothing comparable to the Japanese underground doll culture in “the West” (whatever that means).

Edited February 5, 2022 by ragnamuffin

This culture isn't restricted just to heads but also applies to the more exclusive clothing and accessories makers who open up their shop for effectively a day, sell out immediately, and you find those pieces secondhand for a heavy markup. It's really pretty much an influencer sort of model.

 

1 hour ago, ragnamuffin said:

She’s only been auctioning her stuff on YJA for the past six months or so but it’s not unusual for her heads to go for several thousands of dollars, and her last Snow Princess head went for nearly USD $10k.

There are many other artists that are also able to sell floating heads for the equivalent of thousands of dollars, but the custom doll community in Japan is a whole different ball game compared to other places. They’re not just selling at those prices because the heads are cute or because they’re a brand name—these artists usually build up a cult following on Twitter and at events by interacting with their fans, and they drum up hype for each head by taking professional quality shots and “leaking” pictures in the days leading up to the auction to send their fans into a frenzy.

I think it would be very difficult to fetch the same prices for custom heads and accessories outside of Japan because there’s nothing comparable to the Japanese underground doll culture in “the West” (whatever that means).

 

42 minutes ago, chef_mai said:

This culture isn't restricted just to heads but also applies to the more exclusive clothing and accessories makers who open up their shop for effectively a day, sell out immediately, and you find those pieces secondhand for a heavy markup. It's really pretty much an influencer sort of model.

 

Oh.. I had no idea that the sales price of one-off heads had to do with the influencer/artist and not exactly the head + faceup itself.

I could pay off my tuition and have plenty of money left over from selling one-off heads as long as I have a cult following on social media and doll events. (Maybe??)

Ronronshuka doesn’t take faceup commissions either! She sells her work on Y!JA only. Her clothing, wigs and accessories sell out immediately (or almost immediately). 

Wilhelmina (Ob60) wears a light pink babydoll dress/short set by her! I found it on DollyTeria for 3,500 yen.

At that time, I was new to the hobby and didn’t know any better.. All I wanted was for my only doll at the time, Meigana, to have clothing she could wear with a lower chance of staining.

This dress fits Wilhelmina perfectly. 

31 minutes ago, Rneiro said:

Ronronshuka doesn’t take faceup commissions either! She sells her work on Y!JA only. Her clothing, wigs and accessories sell out immediately (or almost immediately).

Actually she mostly sells at events like Dollshow and I-Doll, but she also has an FC2 Cart she opens up from time to time. The prices are much more reasonable this way, but they pretty much sell out immediately.

Also, most people don’t seem to be aware of this for some reason, but her wigs are regularly available at affordable prices on Booth.pm.

I think part of the reason Ronshuka/Nanami Junko is so wildly popular is because she’s kind of unique in that she does everything—heads, eyes, wigs, clothes—and they’re all really high quality. Usually these influencer/dealers only do one or two of these things. Her style is also kinda plain but cute and fresh enough to appeal to a wide base. There are many other artists with more characteristic art styles whose heads also go for thousands of dollars (I’m focusing on heads because you mentioned wanting to paint some and because they’re much more lucrative than clothing and accessories).

55 minutes ago, Rneiro said:

I could pay off my tuition and have plenty of money left over from selling one-off heads as long as I have a cult following on social media and doll events. (Maybe??)

It would be interesting if a similar subculture developed outside Japan, although I think it might be hard to emulate since most people don’t stan for your average Joe the way they do in Japan. Maybe you could market yourself to Japanese Twitter as “that gaijin who paints dolls overseas” 😆

On 2/5/2022 at 1:13 AM, ragnamuffin said:

Actually she mostly sells at events like Dollshow and I-Doll, but she also has an FC2 Cart she opens up from time to time. The prices are much more reasonable this way, but they pretty much sell out immediately.

Also, most people don’t seem to be aware of this for some reason, but her wigs are regularly available at affordable prices on Booth.pm.

I think part of the reason Ronshuka/Nanami Junko is so wildly popular is because she’s kind of unique in that she does everything—heads, eyes, wigs, clothes—and they’re all really high quality. Usually these influencer/dealers only do one or two of these things. Her style is also kinda plain but cute and fresh enough to appeal to a wide base. There are many other artists with more characteristic art styles whose heads also go for thousands of dollars (I’m focusing on heads because you mentioned wanting to paint some and because they’re much more lucrative than clothing and accessories).

It would be interesting if a similar subculture developed outside Japan, although I think it might be hard to emulate since most people don’t stan for your average Joe the way they do in Japan. Maybe you could market yourself to Japanese Twitter as “that gaijin who paints dolls overseas” 😆

1/??

I know I would like to do faceups with romantic nose bridge blushing and/or stripes as a signature! 'Signature' isn’t the word I’m looking for. I can’t think of it right now.

I have more than enough paint and art supplies lying around. New brushes, soft body Liquidex paint, barely used pastels, etc. 

I do not want my faceups to be in a similar style such as AP Ellie/Elle, OSD #89 and other AP characters, but I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. It should be close to the blush on Misa from 2013 but not too close or else I'd be plagiarizing or copying another artist's design(s).

Names only, no faces or else this thread will have to be marked NSFW. They belong to the AP realm.. I want this to remain as clean as possible as it is on DoA.

@chef_mai There is something I would like to send you for your DP thread, if you'd like. It's an Excel spreadsheet I created last year containing all the DollyPop products I could find. It’s a bit outdated now (and needs photos), but it should still help immensely. I will still be able to edit and maintain it. It'll be on the front page here at the same time.

 

1 hour ago, Rneiro said:

@chef_mai There is something I would like to send you for your DP thread, if you'd like. It's an Excel spreadsheet I created last year containing all the DollyPop products I could find. It’s a bit outdated now (and needs photos), but it should still help immensely. I will still be able to edit and maintain it. It'll be on the front page here at the same time.

Sure thing!