Dollfie Dream internal frame structure and Dimensions

Warning: there is dolly nudity

 

Would you like to see what your daughter looks like internally. It can help with posing to see how the joints work. Also if you have to exchange a part, knowing what the parts look like can help.

 

Volks says not to take your daughter apart unless you need to. It can wear down the joints and make them loose. However, someday you may need to open her up to tighten screws.

 

Figure 1. Standard Dollfie Dream Base Body 2 internal frame compared to an assembled Dollfie Dream (DD Rina).

 

Figure 2. The internal frame is built from several individual pieces that fit together. The outer soft vinyl pieces (ex. pieces 3 and 4) fit over the internal frame components. There are multiple points of articulation in each limb. For example, the shoulder joint inserts into a socket allowing it to rotate. Additionally, the shoulder joint can move up and down. Number 7 indicates a socket that allows the lower arm to rotate. Right below that is another point of articulation in addition to the elbow joint (8). Number 9 is another socket that allows the hand to rotate. Number 10 is the wrist joint. The outer soft vinyl hand fits over the lowest part of the limb (11). The hip joint (13) inserts into a socket and also rotates. It can also move towards and away from the body. Number 14 is another point of articulation allowing more leg flexibility. Number 15 and 17 indicate the knee and ankle joints respectively.

 

Figure 3. The body without the soft vinyl outer components is very flexible.

 

Figure 4. Here is the internal frame in a sitting position.

 

Figure 5. The arrows in C-a, C-b, and C-c indicate the additional point of articulation intended to allow more leg flexibility. In C-b the joint is closed. In C-c, it is open. The arrows in C-d indicate multi-way articulation points in the body's core. These points can bend sideways (B) as well as forwards and backwards.

 

Figure 6. Internal Frame and DD II Base Body comparison (model DD Mio)

 

Figure 7. Internal Frame and DD II Base Body sitting

 

Figure 8. Internal Frame and DD II Base Body kneeling (front view)

 

Figure 9. Internal Frame and DD II Base Body kneeling (side view)

 

Figure 10.

 

Figure 11.

 

Figure 12. Overlay of internal frame on assembled body.

 

Figure 13. Overlay of internal frame on assembled body.

 

Figure 14. Internal Frame and DD II Base Body posing.

 

Dollfie Dream size information:

 

DDI

Height - 57 cm

Head - 23 cm

Neck – 9.5 cm

Shoulders -12 cm

Chest - 24 cm

Waist -18.5 cm

Hips - 23 cm

Waist to crotch – 7.5 cm

Shoulders to waist - 13 cm

Arm Length -16 cm

Arm cirbleepference - 8 cm

Wrist cirbleepference - 6 cm

Leg Length - 29 cm (hip to ankle)

Thigh Cirbleepference - 16 cm

Ankle Cirbleepference – 7.5 cm

Foot Length - 7 cm

 

 

DDII Measurements:

* Height: 57 cm (approx. 22 inches )

* M Bust: 22.5 cm (approx. 9 inches)

* L Bust: 25 cm (approx. 10 inches)

* Waist: 14.5 cm (approx. 6 inches)

* Arm length: 19.2 cm (shoulder to fingers)

* Hips: 22.5 cm (approx. 9 inches)

* Leg length: 31 cm (approx. 12 inches)

* Leg length: 37 cm (hips to feet)

 

Tall:570mm / Bust: M-Type 225mm, L-Type 250mm

Waist:145mm / Hip:225mm / waist:310mm

 

These measurements on from the Volks International and Volks USA site:

http://www.volks.co.jp/en/dollfiedream/basebody.html

http://site.volksusa.com/sumikatimes/2010/11/05/dd-size-matters-too/

 

DDIII

 

Parts needed to build a DDIII. Additional optional bust parts shown. Parts come in both normal skin and white skin.

 

 

Neck cirbleepference - 9 cm

Shoulder Width - 12 cm

Arm Length - 17 cm

Wrist cirbleepference - 4.5 cm

Bust cirbleepference - 25 cm (L bust)

Waist cirbleepference - 14 cm

Hips cirbleepference - 23 cm

Upper Thigh cirbleepference - 15 cm

Lower Thigh cirbleepference - 10 cm

Calves cirbleepference - 10.5 cm

Leg Length - 35 cm

Upper leg length - 16 cm

Shin length - 19 cm

Ankle cirbleepference - 7.5 cm

Foot length - 6.5 cm

 

 

DDdy (sometimes referred to as DDdyII) Measurements:

* Height: 57 cm (approx. 22 inches )

* Normal Bust: 26.5 cm (approx. 10 1/2 inches)

* Shapely Bust: 26.5 cm (approx. 10 1/2 inches)

* Waist: 16 cm (approx. 6 inches)

* Hips: 27.5 cm (approx. 10 3/4 inches)

* Leg length: 30.5 cm (approx. 12 inches)

 

Tall:565mm /Bust: Normal 265mm,　Sharply 250mm,　Natural 265mm

Waist:160mm / Hip:275mm / Inseam:305mm

 

These measurements on from the Volks International and Volks USA site:

http://www.volks.co.jp/en/dollfiedream/basebody.html

http://site.volksusa.com/sumikatimes/2010/11/05/dd-size-matters-too/

 

DDdy

Neck cirbleepference - 9 cm

Shoulder Width - 11.5 cm

Arm Length - 15.5 cm

Wrist cirbleepference - 5.4 cm

Bust cirbleepference - 27 cm

Under Bust cirbleepference - 19 cm

Waist cirbleepference - 16.6 cm

Hips cirbleepference - 28 cm

Thigh cirbleepference - 17 cm

Calves cirbleepference - 11 cm

Inseam - 28.5 cm

Ankle cirbleepference - 7.5 cm

 

DDdyIII

 

Parts needed to build a DDdyIII. Bust comes in normal or shapely.

 

 

Neck cirbleepference - 9 cm

Shoulder Width - 12 cm

Arm Length - 17 cm

Wrist cirbleepference - 4.5 cm

Bust cirbleepference - 26.5 cm (normal bust)

Waist cirbleepference - 16 cm

Hips cirbleepference - 27.5 cm

Upper Thigh cirbleepference - 17 cm

Lower Thigh cirbleepference - 12 cm

Calves cirbleepference - 10.5 cm

Leg Length - 35 cm

Upper leg length - 16 cm

Shin length - 19 cm

Ankle cirbleepference - 7.5 cm

Foot length - 6.5 cm

 

 

 

MDD Measurements:

* Height: 43.5 cm (approx. 17 inches)

* S Bust: 15.5cm (approx. 6 inches)

* M Bust: 17cm (approx. 6 3/4 inches)

* L Bust: 18.3cm (approx. 7 inches)

* Waist: 13.5cm (approx. 5 inches)

* Hips: 18.5cm (approx. 7 inches)

* Leg length: 21cm (approx. 8 inches)

 

Tall:435mm / Bust:S-Type 155mm, M-Type 170mm, L-Type 183mm

waist:135mm / Hip:185mm / Inseam:210mm

 

These measurements on from the Volks International and Volks USA site:

http://www.volks.co.jp/en/dollfiedream/basebody.html

http://site.volksusa.com/sumikatimes/2010/11/05/dd-size-matters-too/

 

MDDIII

 

Parts needed to build a MDDIII.

 

 

 

DDS

 

Neck cirbleepference - 9 cm

Shoulder Width - 12 cm

Arm Length - 16 cm

Wrist cirbleepference - 4.5 cm

Bust cirbleepference - 21.5 cm (M bust)

Waist cirbleepference - 15 cm

Hips cirbleepference - 23 cm

Upper Thigh cirbleepference - 14.5 cm

Lower Thigh cirbleepference - 11.5 cm

Calves cirbleepference - 10 cm

Leg Length - 30.5 cm

Upper leg length - 12.5 cm

Shin length - 18 cm

Ankle cirbleepference - 7.5 cm

Foot length - 6.5 cm

 

Parts needed to build a DDS. Additional optional bust parts shown. Parts come in both normal skin and white skin.

 

(1) A New Size: with a height just over 50cm, this body size is almost half a head smaller than the standard DD, giving her a sweetness like that of a younger ‘sister’ to the DD. She brings a whole new possibility to the expressiveness of DD.

 

(2) Mobility: the overall mobility was enhanced, in particular the elbow and hip joints, to allow her to recreate even more charming poses. The broad posing range has become even broader.

 

(3) A Beautiful Appearance: and of course the external beauty the DD series has always been so particular about is as strong as ever. The joints have been made as inconspicuous as possible, and the smooth and curvaceous beauty of one almost an adult has been carefully recreated.

 

(4) Improved Holding Capability: various joint areas have had their holding capability greatly improved so that they can maintain poses even when she’s holding weapons or similar in her hands. Together with her enhanced mobility, this makes for a truly easy to handle body.

 

(5) Compatibility: although the height is different, the body size is similar to the DD, meaning it’s possible for her to wear DD sized outfits just as they are! And of course the head, hand and feet parts are completely compatible with DD.

 

(6) Exchangeability: starting with the legs, the ease of removing and attaching each body part has been greatly improved. And we have plans to sell many of those parts separately in the future!

Edited October 25, 2012 by Guest

Such a great guide! I recall when I first saw this, I was amazed at what was just under my girls skin! Great photos Mitsuki!

 

 

Billy

Thank you! They sure look a lot cuter assembled.

great that very helpfull. i got another question. some parts get easy to remove as other ..... did anyone has a idea how to pull the hip parts from the torso without brock anything?

Here is wgn_white's description of his method:

 

  wgn_white said:

I just use hair dryer.

On the slowest fan mode, I place the DD to spread her leg on a table covered by a white clothes then align the hair dryer pointing to the DD.

I let it for something around 10 ~ 15 minutes... I didn't hold the hair dryer... I go make some coffee and something else.

Then I go back, to it.

Switch off the hair dryer, use the clothes to hold the DD, it's hot! As hot as fresh hard boiled egg.

Not so dangerous but you know how it feel.

Then holding the "ball" part of the leg, I lay it on my chest, and pull the other leg away from me.

 

I failed the first try, then I heat them again for about 15 minutes, after that it pull apart quite easy.

Nothing break.

 

The warmer things are, the easier it is to get them to give enough to separate.

outch ... 15 mins hairdryer and than pull hard ....... omg ....... poor girl but ok if it has to be it has to be hope to get her back together

Good luck, Claudia!

thats what i need i will kill my doll

ok i try and i put her in half .... but the hips sticking strong i didnt get them out.... the hairdryer hasn´t work also

  Claudia said:

ok i try and i put her in half .... but the hips sticking strong i didnt get them out.... the hairdryer hasn´t work also

 

If you are trying to pull your girl into two pieces ( the top torso with arms and the bottom from the waist down ) you shouldn't need the heatgun or hairdryer.

 

I find that if you twist the top and bottom in opposite ways while pulling up firmly, it's much easier. Just get a grip on the waist area with one hand and on the bottom of the bust piece with your other hand and pull and twist in opposite directions at the same time. Most of my girls make squeaking noises when I do this because the fit of the peg in the bottom half fits tightly into the round hole in the top of the torso area. It may seem really difficult at first but taking your girl apart like this gets easier to do after a few times.

 

Try the twist and pull method and see if it works out better for you.

 

 

Billy

i try tjat also but no result.

 

to remove torso from hips was no problem arms too. to remove the feets and the calf no problem but the peck in the hip where the balls are for the thighs .. i dont get them out ...... my boyfrind also try tu pull and twist but knothing all wie get out is the middle bart of the tight and a bit from the round ball where the tight is but not the peg from the hip hole of the inner skeleton....

 

there not moving one millimeter.

 

only result is that the thightcover is now more loose as before ......

I have not attempted to remove the legs from the hip socket, but using hot water or a heat gun/blow dryer seems to be very important to get this piece apart.

 

I'm going to email Volks USA about this and see what they say for you

 

Wow they were fast! Here's what Volks USA told me:

 

  Quote

Thank you for contacting us regarding this matter.

 

Unfortunately there are not any tips or tricks for removing

the legs from the armature. It is quite difficult and will take

time.

 

The two main things are to do it in a warm place and to make

sure that you pull the joint straight out and don't bend the rods

which hold the legs to the body.

 

You can use a hair dryer on the joints just as you would with

the vinyl parts. It can sometimes help to loosen those difficult

areas.

 

We hope that this has been of some help to you.

 

Sincerely,

 

VOLKS USA Web Service Team

thank you plastic fantastic but thats all i try nothing helped... maybe i shoud be mor patient and try again and not give up after 2 and a half hours

  Claudia said:

thank you plastic fantastic but thats all i try nothing helped... maybe i shoud be mor patient and try again and not give up after 2 and a half hours

 

Volks does say it is difficult and time consuming. I have not tried this myself so I can't really give any further input. It seems that heat and force are the most important. Possibly while trying to pull the leg out straight some twisting may help.. Though there is a risk of fracture from twisting.

well i will try it on some other day again if i have more time and i want waste it in try to kill my doll

 

thanx for your help

hey i have a question how often happend it that a screw fall out of the doll?

 

today i work on a new outfit and by dressing up was fall out a screw.

 

first i didn´t know where that screw was comming but i knew it was from my DD

 

so i try to drift her apart again.... the last few trys not worked this time same i don´t can seperate the tights from hips.... but i need to because that screw was cominig from inside the thight......

 

i had luck and seperate the tight from hipball and can fix the problem ...

 

now my question how often will hat happend?

 

i guess it happend regular

I bought a doll with a screw rattling around in her. I don't know where it came from. She seems fine. I kept the screw in case I find out where it goes. Otherwise, I usually don't see the screws coming loose on their own. I hope your girl is OK in the end.

i´m not sure .. i geuess the other leg is loose to because its a bit longer and sloppy as the osther i gues it´s the same .. the middel part of the thight´s frame had a screw and if that not strong the middelpart can be slopy and than the leg gets longer .. i gues ista regular problem maybe anyone has the same problem regular i can´t believ ist not a regular problem because it´s always in moving and where something is in moving screws can get loose..... maybe i should take a picture than i´t more to understand

This happened to my girl too, it's probably in her thigh. There's a strange optional joint in there that when loose makes one leg longer than the other. Unfortunately, my girl came this way. It took me a long time to figure out! Getting the thigh off is quite difficult, but now she's just fine. Get a blowdryer and some gloves so you don't burn yourself and go to town!

 

I know this is an old post, but I figured it might help people who end up with a similar problem to have it written down by someone who has done it.

Great guide!!! It's nice to see an in depth look into the structure of the DD.

 

Quick question: how in the world did you get the feet skin off the frame? I've tried to do it before and gave up as to not wanting to break it.

Unless the foot skin is torn, you don't want to get it off the frame. There are no screws to be tightened inside the foot, no joints to repair. My girl's feet came torn so when I replaced them getting them off was easy - getting them on was very difficult and involved twisting a lot and a hairdryer, along with some burns. As for just removing the foot part from the skeleton itself, wiggle back and forth gently while pulling STRAIGHT out. Be sure you're pulling straight or you might crack something! The hairdryer will not help you as much with the hard plastic but it's worth a shot.

  Quote

Suzuna - There are no screws to be tightened inside the foot, no joints to repair.

 

The photos of the internal skeleton shows that there's a screw in the ball-joint at the ankle though.

 

I'm going to have to do this at some point or another because:

 

1) My Moe v.2 was sent to me with 2 left feet... I'm going to have to replace one foot with an option part sooner or later.

 

2) The ball joint in the ankle of my MDD is really loose. There's a 1mm gap in the ball joint and her foot is really floppy. Is it worth the trouble to try to take her foot off and tighten the joint?

  archangeli said:

2) The ball joint in the ankle of my MDD is really loose. There's a 1mm gap in the ball joint and her foot is really floppy. Is it worth the trouble to try to take her foot off and tighten the joint?

 

You can tighten the MDD ankle screw without removing the foot vinyl. If you remove the foot from the leg you can position the peg sticking out of the foot in such a way that you can get to the screw a small screwdriver without having to go through the hassle of removing the vinyl.

 

However, it's not a huge help as the screw is screwed into plastic so you have to be very careful not to strip it. Anyway, I tightened mine as much as I dared and the ankles are better, but still worse than the DD2. If you really have a huge gap it's obviously worth tightening it up some though.

  scripple said:

You can tighten the MDD ankle screw without removing the foot vinyl. If you remove the foot from the leg you can position the peg sticking out of the foot in such a way that you can get to the screw a small screwdriver without having to go through the hassle of removing the vinyl.

 

Oooh - thanks for the tip! I had to take a blowdryer to her foot to softer the vinyl a bit, and then I was really careful about wiggling the peg (since I'm paranoid it'll break on me!) but I managed to tighten up that screw a bit.

 

It's not perfect, but there's definitely an improvement!

 

Now to worry about how to change the foot when the time comes for Moe...

Is there a skeleton comparison like this of the DDS body? I'm getting annoyed how big the gap is in the middle of DDS torso. I would like to shorten the gap...